
A Garage Floor you stop apologising for
Most garages in the Hills were finished the day the house was built and never touched again. The concrete picks up oil drips, tyre marks and a fine grey dust that never quite sweeps away, and after a few years the floor becomes the reason the roller door stays shut.
A coated floor changes how the room gets used. It is sealed, so spills wipe up instead of soaking in and the dust stops. It is brighter, because a light floor throws what light you have back around the room. And it looks finished, which is why most people end up using the space for more than parking.
Get a Free QuoteWhat an epoxy garage floor actually is
Epoxy is a two part coating. A resin and a hardener are mixed together and a chemical reaction sets them into a hard, bonded film across the concrete. It is not paint sitting on top of the slab, and it is not a sealer soaking into it. Done properly, the coating grips into the ground surface of the concrete and becomes part of the floor.
A finished garage floor is usually built in layers rather than a single coat. There is a primer that soaks into the prepared concrete, a body coat that carries the colour or the flake, and a clear top coat that takes the wear. The top coat is the layer that meets your tyres and your shoes, and it is the layer that gets replaced years down the track if the floor ever needs freshening up, which is a much smaller job than starting again.


Preparation is most of the work
It starts with grinding. Diamond grinders go across the whole slab with dust extraction running, taking off the old coating, the glue, the sealer and the weak top layer of the concrete itself.
- Diamond grinding: the slab comes back to clean, open concrete so the primer can key into it.
- Crack and chip repair: cut out, filled and sanded flush before anything is coated.
- Oil spots: ground out and treated separately, because degreasing only lifts what sits on the surface.
- Moisture test: we check the slab before choosing a system, since moisture rising through concrete will lift a sealed coating.
Nothing goes down until the floor is dry, sound and dust free.
The finishes you can choose from
- Flake: coloured vinyl flake is broadcast across the wet body coat, then sealed under a clear top coat. Most of our garage customers end up here, because the speckled surface hides dust and small marks far better than a flat colour, and the texture gives the floor a bit of grip underfoot. Flake blends can be mixed to pick up the colours already in your house.
- Metallic: metallic pigments are worked through the coating while it is still moving, so the finished surface has depth and swirl running through it. No two metallic floors come out the same. This suits garages that get used as more than parking, like a home gym, a workshop with the door open or a space for a car worth looking at.
- Solid colour: a single, even colour with a clear coat over it. The floor stays easy to sweep and the whole garage feels brighter afterwards, particularly in a light grey or a mid tone. Solid colour shows dust a little more readily than flake, so it suits people who keep the space tidy anyway.
We bring samples out and look at them in your garage, under your lighting, before you decide. A colour that looks right on a small chip can read quite differently across a whole floor.
All 76 colours are set out on our epoxy flooring colours page, including which base coat each flake blend sits on.

How it holds up to cars
Garage floors take a specific kind of punishment. A car sitting on a coated floor puts its whole weight through four small contact patches, and warm tyres can grip a poorly bonded coating and pull it up when the car is moved. That failure is called hot tyre pickup, and it is almost always a bonding problem rather than a problem with the coating itself, which is another reason the grinding stage matters so much.
Beyond vehicle weight, a coated garage floor stands up well to the things that stain bare concrete. Oil, coolant, brake fluid and dropped tools all sit on the surface instead of soaking in, so a spill is something you wipe up rather than something you live with. Cleaning becomes a broom and occasionally a mop with warm water and a mild detergent. Most people notice that difference more than anything else, because the dust that came off the bare slab simply stops.
We choose the system based on how the garage is used. A floor that parks a work ute and holds a welder gets specified differently to a floor that parks a hatchback and stores the bikes.
From booking to finished floor
- Site visit: we look at the slab, test for moisture and talk through how you use the space. The quote follows the visit, not photos.
- Written quote: the preparation, the system, your finish, and how many days we need on site.
- Clearing out: everything comes out before we start, shelving included. We give you notice.
- Grinding and repairs: day one, with dust extraction running. This is the noisy part.
- Priming and coating: primer, then the body coat with flake or metallic worked in, then the clear topcoat. Each layer cures before the next.
- Curing and handover: you walk on it before you park on it. We give you the dates for your floor.
Most garages are done in a single day on site. We take one job a day, so your floor gets the whole day rather than being fitted around someone else’s. Bigger floors can run two or three days, and you hear that at the quote rather than on the day.


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Tell us about your floor and we will come back fast with an upfront price. Servicing garages, warehouses and homes right across NSW.
0468 333 881sales@evoepoxy.com.auWe work out of Kellyville and cover Castle Hill, Kellyville Ridge, Bella Vista, Norwest, Baulkham Hills, Rouse Hill, Beaumont Hills, Glenhaven, Dural, Kenthurst, Box Hill, Stanhope Gardens, Glenwood, Parklea, The Ponds, Schofields, Winston Hills, Seven Hills, Northmead and Marsden Park.
We reply to every enquiry within one business day

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Free on-site assessment and a fixed written quote within one business day.
Frequently asked questions
How long before I can park on my new garage floor?
Foot traffic is usually fine well before vehicle traffic, because the coating keeps hardening long after it feels dry. The typical figures for the polyaspartic topcoats we prefer are around five to six hours to light foot traffic, around twenty four hours to light vehicle traffic, and full chemical cure at somewhere between three and seven days depending on the system. Evo’s own working figure is 72 hours before a floor goes back into normal use. Those are guides and not promises, because weather, temperature and the state of the slab move all of them, so Kian gives you the real dates for your floor. It is worth waiting them out rather than putting a car back in early, since final hardness is what protects a garage floor from hot tyres.
Will an epoxy floor be slippery?
A clear top coat on its own has a smooth, glossy surface, which can feel slick when it is wet. Flake finishes have texture built into them from the flake itself, and we can also add a fine slip resistant additive to the top coat if the garage is somewhere people walk in wet shoes. Tell us at the quote and we will factor it in.
Can you coat over an existing painted or sealed garage floor?
The old coating comes off first, because whatever is already on the slab becomes the weakest point in the new floor. Stripping it back is part of the grinding stage and it is included in what we quote. It sometimes adds time if the previous product is stubborn, and we will flag that when we look at the slab.
Is a garage floor coating worth it if the concrete is stained and cracked?
Usually yes, and stained cracked concrete is what most of our garage jobs start as. Stains get ground out, cracks and chips get cut and filled during preparation, and the new coating covers the repairs. If a slab has structural movement rather than ordinary surface cracking, that is a different conversation and we will tell you honestly when we come out.
Evo Epoxy Flooring
2 Affleck Cct, Kellyville NSW 2155
Servicing the Hills District & North West Sydney
